limiting resistor การใช้

• Miniature indicator LEDs are normally driven from low voltage DC via a current-limiting resistor.
• An LED connected across a battery without a limiting resistor would generally fry when forward biased.
• I'm pretty sure you always want to use a series, current-limiting resistor.
• This involves applying the operating voltage for some 10 minutes over a current limiting resistor to the terminals of the capacitor.
• Another experiment : apply DC high voltage to a small neon pilot light, with a current-limiting resistor in series.
• :A lot of modern LED flashlights seem to skip the limiting resistor and just count on the battery's internal impedance to limit the current flow.
• :First off, make sure every LED has a current-limiting resistor, especially if you're thinking of driving it with the 15 volts!
• To limit the energy delivered in case of a short-circuit, test lights must have a current-limiting fuse or current-limiting resistor and fuse.
• When you're simply using a current limiting resistor obviously the mAh is all that really matters Nil Einne 21 : 00, 18 September 2007 ( UTC)
• A steady current flows from the battery, through the current-limiting resistor, through the primary coil, through the closed breaker points and finally back to the battery.
• Alternatively, the AVRISP mkII can still be used if low-value ( ~ 150 ohm ) load-limiting resistors can be placed on the SPI lines before each peripheral device.
• It consists of the two n-p-n transistors V 3 and V 4, the " lifting " diode V 5 and the current-limiting resistor R 3 ( see the figure on the right ).
• If a 12volt power source is applied to either pin, the batteries are charged at 22mA . If both pins are used, the batteries are charged at 44mA . The 12volt feed is via two 330? current limiting resistors and the wired in fuse.
• ** I have used a car battery and the car headlamp as a limiting resistor to supply fairly high current for testing purposes, but of course if you make your conections incorrectly or simply have bad luck the results could be equipment damage or personal injury.
• You should properly connect up the LED with a current limiting resistor-but the amount of current required for a particular LED depends on the nature of how it was manufactured-and how much light it's going to put out-and to know that you need a data sheet.
• If the battery voltage with no load is much higher than the proper operating voltage of the LED, you might need to connect a current limiting resistor in series with the LED . You can avoid this by making sure the number of pairs of metal elements in the battery is high enough to light the LED but not too high.
• It's for this reason that the primary electrical specification for an LED is the current, I think ( that is, the value you want your current-limiting resistor to limit the current to ), with the " voltage " buried in the fine print, because in practice you hardly care about it at all .  talk ) 04 : 46, 14 September 2007 ( UTC)
• :: : : : : ? you guys must be young; i'm old enough that my stock of power strips, switches and GFCs with pilot lights, etc . antedate the wide availability of LEDs and rely on the once ubiquitous NE2 bulb, a handy item with a current draw of a few milliamps whose availability at every Radio Shack I miss, due to a lifelong habit of wiring them ( with a current-limiting resistor ) across the after-the-switch power leads of all appliances such as the OP's heater which did not come with an indicator.